Ideally, it is best to pack and move your aquarium separate from all of the other boxes and clutter, as that can take away focus from the health and safety of the fish during a move. Also, do not feed the fish within 24 hours of the move, as this will cut down on the waste in the water of the travel container. When packing the aquarium, take out and wash the decorations first, then catch the fish and put it into its travel container (we will get to that in shortly), and then empty the water from the aquarium, but not before filling the travel container with water directly from the aquarium. If the decorations in the tank are breakable or expensive, be sure to wrap them in paper or Styrofoam, as well as keep them together in one box so they do not get displaced in the move.

As for the container in which the fish should be moved in, a Styrofoam box appropriate for the journey can be found at most local pet stores. Be sure to fill the container directly with water from the home aquarium before emptying it for the move. To protect the Styrofoam container further, most pet shops recommend using a plastic liner, as well as an outer cardboard protective shell. Just be extremely careful if using a plastic bag or liner, as, if little oxygen is allowed in, your pet fish may be dead before you even pull out of the driveway. While on the road, it is best to cover the fish with a blanket, and to resist checking on them often, as this scares them.

A few hours later, once at the new location, the aquarium should be set up in a nearly identical manner to that at the old location. It is also best to use the old gravel, as it will still contain many necessary bacteria that the tank needs. Water should be added, and the purifier added, and then should be left to acclimate to room temperature. Once the water is at room temperature, slowly add in your fish, and welcome them to their new home.

Below are listed some of the ailments that betta fish can develop. With all of these conditions, as soon as you discover them in your betta fish, it is important to keep the Betta isolated so it does not contaminate any of the other fish in the tank. Also, even if  no other fish live in the tank, move the sick betta into a one-gallon bowl, where it will be much easier to administer the doses of medication. Use the same water that is in the tank to avoid any abrupt changes in the water that may actually make the fish sicker. Read on for the  list of common betta fish ailments. If you see any of these symptoms in your fish, be sure to call a vet for a proper diagnosis and treatment.

Clamped Fins. If the fish’s fins are close to its body, this may be a sign of clamped fins. This is a sign of poor water quality, and can be easily fixed by changing half the water every day until the quality is good. With this process, the fish’s fins should return back to normal.

Ich. Small, noticeable white spots on the beta’s body and fins may be the sign of this serious infection. Another major sign is if the betta rubbing on things in the tank as an attempt to “wipe off” the parasites. Fluctuating water temperatures or stressful conditions can easily cause this disease. Ich needs to be treated immediately.

Tail or Fin Rot. The sure signs of fin or tail rot are fins that appear to be shredded, have holes, or simply appear to be rotting. Rot can spread quickly around the entire body, making it imperative to treat immediately.

Constipation. If a betta fish seems to be acting normally, but has a swollen abdomen, chances are that it is constipated. The most common way that this occurs is if the fish’s food is not changed regularly, as betta fish are most healthy on a variety of foods.

Dropsy. Dropsy is a severe, yet common ailment for betta fish. A bloated belly and noticeably raised scales are clear sign of this ailment. Many experts claim that the raised scales look much like an open pinecone.

Tuberculosis. Surprisingly, this is the only disease that betta fish can pass on to humans. That being said, be very careful when handling the water of a fish that may have tuberculosis, especially if dealing with an already weak immune system. The worst it can do in humans is a skin infection, but wearing gloves can easily prevent this. Some symptoms in bettas are swelling, scale protrusion, weight loss, skin defects, loss of scales and appetite, and clamped fins.

They purify the water of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite, and also act as a part of the filtration system. If the plants are healthy and growing, they will also produce oxygen that will keep your fish happy and healthy. When choosing the plants it is very important, though, to do much research into the species of plant that is right for your purpose and your tank. If you are planting for landscaping, be sure to get species that the fish will not eat. Otherwise, the new plants will be gone in a matter of days or even hours. Larger fish can uproot the plants and consume them faster than you would ever expect. If the plant is for the purpose of feeding, be sure to purchase a plant that is suitable for your particular species of fish, as every plant is not suited for every fish.

These are a few species of plants recommended for tanks with goldfish, with the purpose of decoration and not food. Java Fern, Anubias, Java Moss, and Hornwort, are all fairly hardy and can live in low light. Goldfish are not attracted to them, and they grow rapidly. Crypts and Swords, Valliisneria, Hygrophilas, and Anacharis are also beautifully colored and are resistant to fish. Also, many of these species are hardy enough to be planted in the nutrient-rich soil of outdoor ponds.

Anacharis can also be the object of a goldfish’s appetite depending on the exact species that you have in your pond or tank. Duckweed is a tiny plant that is perfect as a floater in aquariums and outdoor ponds. It provides great cover for the pond, and also acts as great nutrient absorber. But beware; the fish are sure to treat this plant as a snack. For Betta fish specifically, it is important to go to your local pet store or research online which plants are appropriate for your tank or vase.

Many of my Betta fish owner friends prefer that natural look of bamboo in their tanks, especially because it almost completely takes over the need to feed the Betta fish at all. It is extremely common to find Bettas in vases with bamboo, as this is probably the most effective plant for them.

Remember that no matter what kind of fish you own, plants as food are usually a convenient and inexpensive way to keep your fish happy and healthy, but also spruce up the tank and save you tons of time.

Time-Release Food Blocks: Blocks of food can be purchased rather inexpensively, and are perhaps the most convenient way of feeding your fish, or multiple fish while you are away. The feeder blocks are time-released, which means they slowly dissolve for the exact amount of time you will be gone. They can be purchased to last a couple of days, or even up to two weeks. Just be careful, as some brands can pollute the water in your tank, disrupting the ecosystem if you have multiple fish.

Mechanical feeders: This is the next step up from feeder blocks. The size of the food portions can be set, as well as the frequency at which the food is given. This is the easiest device for your fish to adapt to, as it is the most similar to a human dropping the food into the tank. They are suitable for numerous types of fish, and work well in both large aquariums, and small betta tanks. The only downside is that they can clog easily, and fall into the tank. Even though more expensive, they will be worth the cost in the long run, especially if you travel often.

Other Alternatives:Betta fish, as well as other types of fish, can live off of certain types of plants, which, if properly put in their tank, can work  while you are away, or any time at all. Adding hornwort or anacharis to the tank can allow 24 hour grazing. For other types of fish, a brine shrimp hatchery can be installed, and the small shrimps wander into the tank to be eaten by your fish.

Although the best way is to make sure your fish is properly fed while you’re out of town, these are some of the most popular and convenient ways if finding a pet-sitter is just not an option. Also, an important thing to keep in mind is not to give your fish extra food the day you leave, as this could be your fish’s last meal. So next time you go on vacation, use these tips and your fish will stay happy, healthy, and definitely not hungry.

Clean the water regularly. Lately, I have been caught up in my school and work schedule. Although I have been feeding my fish, I had not changed the water in the tank for about two months. The filter is broken, so I should have noticed the cloudy water. However, I did not, and my fish got sick. Be sure to clean the water in your tank at least once a month. This will keep your tank clean, and your fish happy and healthy.

Feed the fish. This is one of those important parts of pet ownership that often goes overlooked. If you are busy, the last thing you are going to remember is to feed your fish. However, it is worth writing down in your planner to feed the fish every other day, or one day you may come home and find your fish has died of starvation.

Acknowledge the fish. Although they may not be as intelligent as cats or dogs, if your fish lives long enough, it will start to recognize that you (the human) equal food, much like other pets. For example, I have had my fish for a year and a half, and every time I open the bottom of his tank, where I keep his food, he starts happily darting around. On top of this, when I simply enter the room, he wakes up from where he is sleeping in the tank and starts swimming out to look at me, and then again, happily starts darting around. Remember, a fish is a pet, and does deserve at least a few minutes of your time each week. Put your finger up against the glass and see if the fish will follow, or just sit next to the tank and “talk” to your fish. You will be surprised by how it responds.

Show the fish some respect. One of my biggest pet peeves is when a friend has a fish die, and then desecrates its body by playing with it, or ‘accidentally’ throwing it at someone. Maybe I am just too sensitive, but in my mind, that fish was your pet, just like any cat or dog. Show the fish the respect it deserves.

One of my good friends and coworkers in college has been in love with her betta fish, Steve, since the day she bought him. After wanting a pet her freshman year, Steve has survived for a full three years and is still swimming happily in his barren, glass vase. My friend is now a senior, and honestly, has put Steve through hell. Steve’s first great adventure came with his first journey to Maine, as my friend was going home for the summer. Steve survived the two-day, 1,600-mile journey from New Orleans with no trouble at all. In fact, to transport him, my friend simply put him in a cup, with a paper towel taped to the top. In Steve’s short life, he has been back and forth from Maine six separate times. This proves that betta fish are hardy enough to travel with students if they must go home for the summer.

Steve the betta fish has also survived several “in house” issues. All of last year, his bowl was on top of the microwave. One would think the little bits of radiation and heat would have fried the poor little fish, but instead, he was always swimming around in happy circles. This Spring, my friend’s room was flooded with a foot of water by a faulty fire sprinkler; although some water had gotten into Steve’s vase, he made it through the great flood. The same could not be said about my friend’s computer, books, and her entire wardrobe. Steve the betta fish has survived through betta fish apocalypses, and is still here to tell the tale.

My betta fish, David, has had to face many shenanigans by my former roommate. He enjoyed putting anything from Mardi Grad beads, to tiny, plastic crawfish, to a plastic baby from a New Orleans king cake into the tank, just to see the reaction of David, and whether or not he would attack the foreign objects. To the disdain of my roommate, and to my surprise, David did not so much as even swim near the foreign objects, which could have easily killed him.

I have heard many stories from other owners of betta fish surviving through long evacuations, tank spills, and accidental lack of food for a few weeks. Betta fish are truly resilient in the world of fish, and in my opinion, still make the perfect pet for any college student.

This mid-summer tragedy happened in my own household. To begin, there is a type of pet out there that is sold for mere pennies or even given free after winning a game. This pet is often not fed, kept in a cheap plastic bag, and left for dead. You all know what I am talking about. This is the story of the poor, unfortunate, and often tragic life of a carnival goldfish. Continuing with the story, this summer, my little sister exclaimed with joy as she carried the goldfish she won at the local carnival into the house. She had named him, and then set him on the counter. I asked her what she was going to do with the fish now, and she said, “Let it die.”

As you can imagine, I was appalled. I took it upon myself from that point on to save the goldfish and allow it to live a long and happy life. I gave it a simple bowl, some fish flakes, fresh water, and some tender love and care. Believe it or not, these carnival goldfish can be more than just a fun prize to win and something disposable to immediately get rid of. Goldfish can actually live for years, and if given the right conditions, will make a cheap and easy pet for college students, teenagers, and even young children.

The purpose of writing this article is simple. When your child wins a fish at the carnival, look at it as a living, breathing pet, rather than a toy. By taking the goldfish home, you have saved it from the virtual goldfish genocide that occurs when carnivals move from town to town. It is a living creature, and should be treated with the respect of one. The first step is to give it a name, creating a stronger connection between you and your new fish. Then, to create a home for your new goldfish, you will need only a few simple things. A bowl or vase filled with clean, room temperature water will make the perfect habitat. A filter with a tank would be ideal, but not necessary. Next, a $3.00 container of fish food will be enough to last for several months. Finally, decorative plants, rocks, or flowers in the vase will make for a new household accessory, while doubling as your new pet.

The inevitable death of your carnival goldfish can be pushed back with some simple steps to care for your fish. Be sure to feed the fish and change the water regularly. It is true that some fish die the next day, the same day, or even hours after being won. But, with a little love and care, carnival fish can avoid being flushed and be a pet that will last for a couple of years. So on behalf of goldfish everywhere, give your carnival goldfish a chance for survival.

To truly get that feeling of ‘home’ for many people, one key component needs to be present: a pet. Now, no college will allow you to have your dog or cat on campus, but the majority of campuses do allow you to have a fish in a bowl or small aquarium. This is a trend I have experienced first hand.

On move-in day, during my freshman year of college, my Resident Assistant announced that we were to have no pets, other than specifically “tropical fish.” Of course this made no sense to me, or anyone else who was having ‘pet withdrawals.’ Our solution to this rule was to purchase the ever-beautiful and unbeatably hearty betta fish. Also known as a Siamese fighting fish, bettas range in color from blue to orange, and make the absolute perfect pet for a college student of any sort. They require very little maintenance and still manage to give your dorm that feeling of completeness.

My experience as the proud owner of a betta began in January of 2010. To keep equal with all of my friends, it came time for me to get a betta of my own. I drove to the nearest Petsmart and purchased everything I needed to get started. The best part is, betta fish fall well within the tight budget of most college students. Here’s a list of everything you need to get started, and prices based on what I paid at the Petsmart in Metairie, Louisiana.

Steps to your very own betta fish:

1. Choose the betta that stands out for you. With so many colors and patterns, this will be a hard choice. $2.99-$5.99.
2.Get a bowl or small aquarium with a filter. I decided to go for the small aquarium, as you don’t have to clean it as often. $9.99-39.99.
Keep in mind that most pet stores also sell betta kits that include everything you need, including food and water purification fluid.
3. Decorations to customize your tank. (Mine is Asian themed) Your fish will love some plants to hide behind — and be sure to get colored rocks to match your dorm room. $0.99-14.99.
4.Don’t forget food! One container of dried food should last up to a year and you can even get special bamboo so you never have to worry about feeding your betta. $2.99.

For under $25.00 you can be the proud owner of a betta fish, complete with all of the accessories it will ever need. So make the investment for yourself, and your dorm, you will not regret it!

A less demanding way is the U.S. Postal Service. That’s right, you can mail live fish. If you order fish from a breeder outside your region, that’s probably how they’ll get to you. If you ever want to send a live fish a long distance, this option is also open to you.

Of course, there are lots of specifications. The Post Office says that “small, harmless, cold-blooded animals” sent by mail cannot be larger than 20 inches. (That takes them out of the “small” category, I guess.) Also, in its words, the animals:

* Must be able to reach their destination in good condition in the normal transit time between the mailing and address points.
* Must not require any food, water, or attention during transport.
* Must not create sanitary problems.
* Must not create obnoxious odors.

I don’t know how the U.S. government defines “obnoxious odors”, but I think keeping the fish “in good condition” — alive, at the very least — should keep them down. As for not requiring water — well, you know what they mean.

There are further rules for goldfish and tropical fish, mostly common sense. The fish have to be put in a “securely sealed primary receptacle”. This needs to be surrounded by enough absorbent material to soak up all the water, just in case. Then everything has to go into a waterproof package.

These rules are for mail within the U.S.; fish are “nonmailable in international mail”, and that’s probably for the best.

If you’re thinking of sending live fish through the mail, first ask for advice at your local Post Office. There’s more to it than knowing the rules, and they can set you on the right track.

The clown loach is a whitish-orange to reddish-orange with three thick, black, triangular, vertical bands. The fish also has a movable spine that lies in a groove below the eye, which may be extended as a defense mechanism. The spine may cause a painful wound, but is not venomous. It also may be used as a predation tool as it is set close to the mouth. Typically adults are about 7 to 10 inches (18 to 26 cm) but can get up to 11 to 14 inches (28 to 36 cm), which is interesting because they are often sold at the very immature size of 1.5 inches (4 cm). This is another reason why they are not considered good for beginners; clown loach grow quite rapidly from their immature 1.5 inches to 5 inches and then require a large tank to mature properly to their full length. If not give ample space to grow the fish will become stressed and may die. It is important to also note that the lifespan of the clown loach is 15+ years, so be ready for the long term when buying these fish.

When in the aquarium, the clown loach prefers to be kept in groups of 3-4 or more. The clown loach really is a completely harmless fish that just wants to socialize. In fact, if the clown loach is kept in too small  groups it will spend most of its time hiding obstacles in the water. If you are interested in other species, the clown loach will also associate happily with Tiger barbs and Panda corydoras.

When first introducing the clown loach to a new tank, there are several things that need be kept in mind.It  is a social and active fish, so plants and other fish are a must; without them the clown loach will go into hiding. Try using placid smaller fish, like inexpensive minnows with a variety of colors, until you know what fish company they like best. Also be sure to watch for Ichthyophthirius (ich), or white spot disease, when first introducing clown loaches to a new tank, as they are particularly susceptible. If clown loaches do not come out of hiding then try making a few changes to make them more comfortable. A good tank setup for a clown loach should include ample shade, real plants, hiding places and other peaceful fishes.

If you’ve ever seen a school of clown loaches, it’s hard to resist bringing a couple of them home. The clown loach, with its orange and black striped body, red fins, and active behavior, has become  one of the most popular loaches among aquarium enthusiasts.