1. It still isn’t going to be simple.  Keeping any animal other than fish tends to take work, and even many types of fish take a lot of work.  Like other pets, they have to be provided with clean housing, food, and water.  The feeding may not be as simple as visiting your local grocery store for a bag of kibble.
2. Do your research on the species.  Because they are less common pets, the pet store employees may not actually know much about them.  Frogs are complex animals and some species make better pets than others.  Some species can be venomous, while others will grow immensely.  For example, if you go to a pet store, you will see cute little frogs called “Pixie Frogs.”  Well, they can grow to be like this.  They are actually African Bullfrogs.
3. Try to get an active frog.  Much like geckos, some species of frogs are active, while others will just sit around and and eat and sleep.  Often, the cooler looking species will be on the less active end of the spectrum.  They will get boring quickly, so pass them up for an active frog.
4. Be ready to have to feed the frog some unusual things.  Like reptiles, many frogs will only eat live food.  Most eat insects, but some eat mice and even rats if they are large enough.  This said, you have to be okay with handling live prey or mice, which grosses many people out.

Keeping a frog can be very fun, but you must be prepared for it.  Keeping a frog can be a lot of work, so do your research and be prepared.

There are several ways to assist with this important cause. By doing one or more of the following things, you can help give a deserving pet a loving home (or make their wait in the shelter a more pleasant one).

1. Sponsor an Ad
Many local newspapers provide space for ads to aid the adoption process. Pictures of cute cats and dogs are pictured together with the animal’s name and a brief synopsis of temperament. If your local shelter works with the newspaper in this manner, consider providing the funds for one or more of these ads. The cost is relatively inexpensive, and they do work to match pets to the right owner.

2. Collect Free Food Samples
Free samples of cat and dog food remain easy to obtain, both from local vendors and over the Internet. All you need to do is be on the lookout for these offers. For example, Rachael Ray now has free samples of  dog food on her Nutrish website. Other offers are easy to find just by searching the terms, “free cat and/or dog food.” This would be a great project for a youth group or senior center to tackle. Once you, or your group, have accumulated a box full of samples, drop them off at the local shelter or rescue.

3. Actively Seek Pet Adopters
Can’t take another pet yourself? Maybe you have a friend or two who have been thinking about getting a purebred dog or cat. Why not steer them to the local shelter? The Humane Society claims that “25 percent of pets in shelters are purebreds.” You not only will save your friend lots of money by letting him or her know that the dog or cat they have been wanting can be found at the shelter, you will be saving an animal’s life.

4. Support Fundraising Events
Many shelters and adoption groups host fundraising events. Make a point to support these events. One unique fundraiser held in Fayetteville in 2011 was the PAWcasso event, where cats “painted pictures” with their paws! The pictures were then sold as a way to raise money for the shelter. (I can imagine one of those masterpieces hanging on my wall). Other shelters raise money by hosting 5K’s or even dances. You can have fun while helping out.

5. Donate Old Linens
Shelters are always in need of blankets and towels, especially during the cold winter months. Don’t throw away your faded linens, give them to the local shelter to make a cat or dog more comfortable.

The first step to solving this issue is to figure out why your pet is biting you. Is her bite more like a nip that doesn’t really hurt? Does he show signs of frustration when you’re trying to put him in his cage? If the bite is more like the former, chances are your pet is sending you a message — but if the bite feel hard(and shows signs of frustration), your bird is probably not happy with the way you’re handling them.

The best way to deal with a biting bird is patience. After your pet bites you, your first reaction should be to remain calm and to gently place your bird inside the cage and close it. Take a few steps away from the cage and figure out what is causing this reaction in your bird. Is it because you’ve been a little hasty or maybe a little rough? Whatever the reason is, you might want to gauge your pet’s reactions as you closely monitor your own actions. If you’re still stumped or your pet’s behavior hasn’t changed or gets worse, then you might want to consult the veterinarian.

Once you’ve figured out the reason for aggression, it’s time to take action. For instance, if you’re still getting used to your new bird and she clearly doesn’t feel comfortable around you, you might want to take the time to chat with her and make her feel more at home before you attempt to take her out of the cage. If your pet bird is growing into his adult years, his biting issue is part of the natural process of growing up. This is a temporary issue only and in time, it will subside. The best thing to do here is to avoid a lot of contact when your pet is showing signs of hormonal changes and to wait until the bird relaxes a little. Remember that this issue is only temporary.

Birds are generally gentle creatures and it takes a lot to ruffle their feathers. It’s important to properly train them and monitor their health on a daily basis, in addition to regular veterinary checkups. Taking care of your bird’s biting problem may not always be an easy thing to do, but it can be done.

There are also a couple of other things you need to consider before purchasing one. They will not do well with young kids in the household who are rough in their handling. They are also nocturnal pets and will play at night. They also cannot be potty trained. They should not be kept with other pets such as snakes or large birds because they see these animals as threats.

Sugar Gliders need lots of height to their cages. They love to climb, jump, and basically glide through the air. So, you need a pretty tall cage to house these pets. You should also have lots of toys for them to play with. Additionally, you need a place where they can stay warm.

Their diet is a complex mixture of fruit, and insects. Their wild diet is varied and their domestic diet must be as nutritionally balanced. Check with your vet or an expert on the sugar gliders to determine a suitable diet plan.

They are very social creatures that like to bond with others. They will readily bond with humans if approached carefully. This type of interaction is normal for them. They also like having playmates and do fairly well with the same sex in the cage.

They can live up to fifteen years. So be prepared to have them around for awhile if you are deciding on them as a pet.

Their vet needs are minimal but you should check with your vet to see if he can handle their care.

Sugar Gliders can be good pets. The biggest thing they need is to interact with others. Other than their diet, they are easy pets to take care of.

Is it safe to put a little snow into a reptile tank for the animal to play with?

Reptile enclosures need to be set up so that the animal  can regulate their body temperature effectively.   Based on the species, you will need to determine what temperature to keep the tank, the ambient air, and the basking areas.  Due to the need to keep this temperature fairly consistent, I would not consider adding a frozen substance, like snow, to the environment.  Also, there is a possibility that there could be substances in the snow that could be toxic to your reptile.

The content provided on this site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to constitute veterinary advice.  The content is not be used for medical diagnosis, treatment, or any other veterinary service and should not be relied upon to guide the medical therapy of an animal.Further, the information transmitted does not constitute the establishment of a veterinarian-client-patient relationship between you and Dr. Baker.  Always consult your family veterinarian in matters regarding the health of your pet.

Although everyone celebrates Christmas in their own special way, a recurring theme I see amongst many families is the giving of gifts to the pets on Christmas.  I think it is a fun and creative way to involve the pets in family celebrations.  At my Dad’s house this Christmas, we gave our dog several toys as Christmas presents, and my uncle gave his dog some presents too.  Sadly, at my mom’s house, neither the chickens nor Gonzo got Christmas presents.  So, I was thinking about whether or not it is actually worth getting your pet a present.

1. It really depends on the species of pet you have.  I’m pretty sure that every time the chickens get human food, they consider it a holiday.  Gonzo is in a similar situation.  Every time he is fed, he is probably happy, and adding a new fixture to his tank may freak him out just as much as it could make him happy.  On the other hand, smarter animals like cats and dogs are excited to get new things and may actually make a connection with the festivities and gifts.
2. It also depends on what they are getting.  If you decide you want to give your dog a sweater, he may not be overly pleased with the gift du jour.  At the same time, my dog was very excited to get new chew toys and a blanket (he piles the blankets in his bed and sleeps in them).
3. Be careful with the festivities.  I know many people who have dogs who can unwrap presents and get the gift out.  This is all fun and games, but be careful to make sure that Fido doesn’t ingest any of the wrapping paper or ribbon.  This could make him one very un-jolly pooch.

With this in mind, have some Happy Holidays!

Will a puppy show signs if it hasn’t lost its baby teeth, or should we check?

During puppyhood you will probably not see clinical signs from retained deciduous (baby) teeth. However, problems are beginning and can lead to symptomatic dental disease as your dog gets older.

If baby teeth do not fall out as the adult teeth grow in, then they can cause a misalignment of the teeth and potentially lead to an abnormal bite as the puppy develops. This may or may not cause some oral pain when the dog is older, depending on the severity of the misalignment. The bigger problem is that because the mouth is overcrowded with teeth, there is a greater incidence of tartar and plaque build-up, which accelerates the progression of gingivitis and periodontal disease.

These can lead to abscesses,infection, tooth mobility, and eventually loss of some teeth. These can also be painful and cause the dog to have a harder time eating, which can lead to irritability, weight loss, foul breath, and withdrawal from normal activity.

If a dog’s dental disease is allowed to progress, it can also  exacerbate other conditions that older dogs may have, such as diabetes, liver problems, kidney, and heart disease.

Your veterinarian will check your puppy’s mouth at each wellness visit and can show you which deciduous teeth are still present. Generally, if your puppy has not lost his baby teeth by the time he is 6-7 months old, they are not going to come out on their own. At this time, your veterinarian can do a brief oral surgery procedure to extract the retained teeth and prevent those from playing a role in future dental problems. This can be done in conjunction with your dog’s spay or neuter surgery, if that has not already occurred.

Cats can also have problems with retained deciduous teeth, though it is not nearly as common as it is in dogs.

The content provided on this site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to constitute veterinary advice.  The content is not be used for medical diagnosis, treatment, or any other veterinary service and should not be relied upon to guide the medical therapy of an animal. Further, the information transmitted does not constitute the establishment of a veterinarian-client-patient relationship between you and Dr. Teller.  Always consult your family veterinarian in matters regarding the health of your pet.

Does a turtle need a UV light in its tank?

Ultraviolet (UV) light is critical for turtles to be able to produce Vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is essential for proper absorption and metabolism of calcium, which is needed for growth and overall health.  Deficiencies in Vitamin D3 and calcium can cause problems with shell growth, bone density, and can even lead to death.

UV light is divided into two main types, UVA and UVB, which are both required for healthy turtles.  UVB light is especially crucial for vitamin D3 productions, but UVA is needed for normal activity and behaviors.  Sunlight is the best source for UV light and should be provided if possible.  Unfortunately, UVB cannot penetrate glass, plastic, or fine mesh, so animals that are housed indoors need additional lighting.  Special bulbs are available that can provide broad spectrum light and there are UVB bulbs manufactured that are able to pass through glass.  The distance away from the enclosure that the light is placed is also important.  Refer to the manufacturers recommendations for exact distances to use.  Based on the species of your turtle, you can determine the which bulb to use that emits the correct amount of UVB light and decide how many hours a day to keep the light on.  It is important to remember that these bulbs have a decreased output over time and need to be replaced on a regular basis.

The exact amount of vitamin D that is required varies by species, so you will want to research the exact requirements for the type of turtle you have.  The variations in vitamin D can stem from differences in the characteristics or the turtle and their normal environment.  Is it a land or water species?  Is it an herbivore or
carnivore?  What is the normal geographic range (temperature, climate, etc.)?  The age of your turtle and the diet you feed can also affect the requirements. Supplementation of vitamin D and calcium may still be required even with proper lighting and diet.

The content provided on this site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to constitute veterinary advice.  The content is not be used for medical diagnosis, treatment, or any other veterinary service and should not be relied upon to guide the medical therapy of an animal.Further, the information transmitted does not constitute the establishment of a veterinarian-client-patient relationship between you and Dr. Baker.  Always consult your family veterinarian in matters regarding the health of your pet.

Below are listed some of the ailments that betta fish can develop. With all of these conditions, as soon as you discover them in your betta fish, it is important to keep the Betta isolated so it does not contaminate any of the other fish in the tank. Also, even if  no other fish live in the tank, move the sick betta into a one-gallon bowl, where it will be much easier to administer the doses of medication. Use the same water that is in the tank to avoid any abrupt changes in the water that may actually make the fish sicker. Read on for the  list of common betta fish ailments. If you see any of these symptoms in your fish, be sure to call a vet for a proper diagnosis and treatment.

Clamped Fins. If the fish’s fins are close to its body, this may be a sign of clamped fins. This is a sign of poor water quality, and can be easily fixed by changing half the water every day until the quality is good. With this process, the fish’s fins should return back to normal.

Ich. Small, noticeable white spots on the beta’s body and fins may be the sign of this serious infection. Another major sign is if the betta rubbing on things in the tank as an attempt to “wipe off” the parasites. Fluctuating water temperatures or stressful conditions can easily cause this disease. Ich needs to be treated immediately.

Tail or Fin Rot. The sure signs of fin or tail rot are fins that appear to be shredded, have holes, or simply appear to be rotting. Rot can spread quickly around the entire body, making it imperative to treat immediately.

Constipation. If a betta fish seems to be acting normally, but has a swollen abdomen, chances are that it is constipated. The most common way that this occurs is if the fish’s food is not changed regularly, as betta fish are most healthy on a variety of foods.

Dropsy. Dropsy is a severe, yet common ailment for betta fish. A bloated belly and noticeably raised scales are clear sign of this ailment. Many experts claim that the raised scales look much like an open pinecone.

Tuberculosis. Surprisingly, this is the only disease that betta fish can pass on to humans. That being said, be very careful when handling the water of a fish that may have tuberculosis, especially if dealing with an already weak immune system. The worst it can do in humans is a skin infection, but wearing gloves can easily prevent this. Some symptoms in bettas are swelling, scale protrusion, weight loss, skin defects, loss of scales and appetite, and clamped fins.

I’ve read that eating raw eggs can make animals’ fur shiny — but can they get salmonella from them?

Animals can definitely get Salmonella from raw eggs. There risk is less than that of humans, but it is still a problem. They can develop severe diarrhea and GI upset when infected and may require IV fluids and antibiotics to recover.

Further risk occurs to humans also. Not only can humans get Salmonella from raw eggs when handling the eggs themselves, but the Salmonella will also be present in the pet’s food bowls. There have been cases of young children coming into contact with the used bowls and getting Salmonella from those.

Animals who are elderly, have another illness, or who are on immunosuppressive medications such as prednisone, cyclosporin, or chemotherapeutic agents are at higher risk and should never be given raw eggs. There are other things that can be done to improve the texture and shine of your pet’s fur, so please contact your veterinarian about your options.

The content provided on this site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to constitute veterinary advice.  The content is not be used for medical diagnosis, treatment, or any other veterinary service and should not be relied upon to guide the medical therapy of an animal. Further, the information transmitted does not constitute the establishment of a veterinarian-client-patient relationship between you and Dr. Teller.  Always consult your family veterinarian in matters regarding the health of your pet.